UNDERSTANDING OLD BIRD TRAVELS SOLO. BOOK ON MEXICO AND NOW TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS TRIP HALF FINISHED.

FOR MY OLD BIRDS ALL OVER THE WORLD, FINALLY WRITING THE BOOK.

“I want to do it because I want to do it. Women must try to do things as men have tried. When they fail, their failure must be but a challenge to others.” Emily Dickinson

Alert: Here we have the idea of this blog, concept and birth. I’ve left the dates more to remind me that it’s nearly five years old. And now I’m turning it into a book, I need to revisit and expand upon those two hundred and seventy-plus blogs.

Starting the book has made me humble and proud at the same time. It’s also made me realise how sloppy and casual I was depending on my pics and videos to do the real leg work. Well, no more Mrs Sloppy. A book without pictures requires the written word to encompass the vivid wonder of those travelling photos and to be eloquent enough to tell the reader what was seen, smelled, tasted, touched and felt. To put those pictures into words dammit!

2019-04-15 From blog intro all those years ago.

OLD BIRDS NEST PAGE: THE ETHOS OF DOING IT ALONE

Hello, my name is Rebecca Taylor, or Old Bird to you, and I’m here to guide you older birds on braving the big old world out there and doing it alone. Come with me and I’ll nurse you through the highs and lows of being an Old Bird travelling solo. This is more of a raucous journal with some culture and tips thrown in. Don’t worry you’ll get the hang of it. It’s sometimes shouty-sweary, so if you’re a delicate bird you’ll have to excuse me. [Go first to OLD BIRD FLYING SOLO BLOG so we can shake hands then go anywhere in the list that you wish to get started.]

This is the place for an older birdie to visit and, hopefully, gain the confidence to strike out on their own. Yes, we older birds don’t always have to be in a flock, they can do it alone and it’s not as scary as you think. The world is your oyster, as an older woman or man indeed, you should be out there doing all these things and revelling in life.

I will hop around timewise as the writing of the diary becomes insignificant when you’re experiencing so many wonderful things. Some of it is funny and some plainly ludicrous but all a part of an old bird travelling solo! Enjoy! I’ll take you all over the world. In different forms of transport, doing different activities, eating different kinds of food and exploring places you never even thought about before. I will attempt to nurse you through any pitfalls with hints and tips and generally share the whole experience warts and all.

I’ll many times be daft as a brush and screw up so you don’t have to. I’ll get you there with your preparations, nurse your anxieties, laugh at myself and show you stuff you might want to see and do.

Welcome to the fine art of mature solo travelling. For it is an art, it takes the years you might feel you don’t have left, so I humbly offer all my mistakes so you don’t have to make them. I will also crow when I get something right.

 “You are the one that possesses the keys to your being. You carry the passport to your own happiness” – Diane von Furstenberg

2019-04-02

“As a woman I have no country. As a woman my country is the whole world.” Virginia Woolf

BEGINNINGS…

“Setting out on an adventure worthy of Homer Rebecca went to Greece, carved out a modelling career, became a film star then taught herself sculpture and established herself as an artist in her own right.”

This was an article written about me in the West End Extra. It continued:

“Every woman deserves an adventure”

What it didn’t mention was the amount of travelling I had done on my Odyssey. Modelling is great for seeing the world and absorbing cultural history and art. While in Barcelona and Athens, I learnt both Spanish and Greek and how to look after myself in foreign territory. Life lessons which are pure gold for a girl’s future as an old bird (and all the bits in between)

“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.” Helen Keller

Well, I love an adventure and all the highs and lows. I get into terrible scrapes but also find great things by taking risks. I did it all the wrong way around, safe holidays when I was younger within Europe and mad hectic far-flung trips from the age of sixty. Why you might ask.

Every time I return to Soho thinking I’ve done enough and it’s time to stay home for a while, then I just get cabin fever again. That’s why in the last few years I’ve travelled all over Asia, Russia, Mongolia, South and Central America and Central Europe. I’ve done this alone and sometimes it’s been hairy, but mostly it has been magnificent. It’s tested me as a person and enriched my life. I want to share this with you and see if I can help people get the confidence to be the best and happiest they can be despite being a little older than the conventional solo traveller. You see, travelling is in my blood and when deprived of it I am like a caged bird and languish.*

“You can’t control the past, but you can control where you go next” – Kirsten Hubbard

*Looking at this now in hindsight I pity the wild, free rogue that wrote these words. My clipped wings from this dreadful false imprisonment during what I will henceforth call ‘times of plague’ and the general global tyranny have drained me and sometimes left me feeling hopeless. I would imagine that’s how you like-minded travellers are feeling too. I love life passionately and have shaken myself down to encourage you guys to get out there and not become broken by all this. Rebecca.

“There is freedom waiting for you, On the breezes of the sky, And you ask “What if I fall?”, Oh but my darling, What if you fly?” Erin Hanson.

I came from a family of artists in Kent and the usual dysfunctional things that arise from those crazy eccentric creatives, their bad behaviour and out there lifestyle. All I really wanted to do was travel. This I did. And a lot. I moved from our family home in Chislehurst to London. This was massive as I literally was a girl brought up on a small farm who makes good, after she goes to the big smoke. I used London as my bouncing board for Barcelona (moved there when I was seventeen and lived with a Palestinian eye surgeon and his family of doctors) then Athens, where I modelled later making a profuse number of hammy TV commercials which led to acting in comedy films (all with Nikos Perakis a top Greek film director). Running away after six years from an ill-judged wedding with my rich jeweller boyfriend, I returned to my roots and started ceramic sculpting and was accepted as a professional member by the Craft Potters Association, an accolade at that time and still is I believe. I then turned a barn into a studio in Chislehurst on the farm I grew up on and got busy with a lot of exhibitions in London and the vicinity. Frustrated for artists in Soho, I opened a small art gallery there named Si Senor! This was a great success and meant I could start travelling as I had the dreaded itchy feet again. Artistic inspiration from the many countries I visited led to my photography outlet, and finally, the limestone carving came from my many visits to Egypt! This is time for a pause for breath!

THE BLOG IDEA.

“Do not stop thinking of life as an adventure. You have no security unless you can live bravely, excitingly, imaginatively, unless you can choose a challenge instead of a competence.” Eleanor Roosevelt

Yeah, hitting sixty gave me a push to go for the big trip and huge bucket list demands. I also felt urgency. I wasn’t sure why but I could ‘feel it in me waters’. It was a time thing that I presumed was due to age and worrying about being fit enough to climb pyramids and horse-ride up dormant volcanoes for example but I now think it was a premonition of things to come. Of what restrictions on travel there would be in a very dystopian future. You gotta admit I did do it in the nick of time for the most part.

Once I decided I wanted to put my big girls’ pants on and travel while keeping a handwritten journal, I whizzed into action and started my blog with a separate introduction for the Old Bird Club (which I now think I should form, trapped as I am in the UK from lack of funds)

“To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the most pleasant sensations in the whole world. You are surrounded by adventure” Freya Stark

2019-04-02

THE BUCKET LISTS.

 “I’ve not ceased being fearful, I’ve gone ahead despite the pounding in my heart that says: turn back, turn back, youll die if you go too far” –  Erica Jong

Fear not! I am here as evidence that it’s much easier than you think and a fantastic experience that bolsters your confidence as a woman (or man indeed) and will enrich your life. I will try to hint heavily at dos and don’ts in each blog which has merited different things to consider. Be brave, take the first step and do it the old-fashioned way and go to the library. Take out a mountain of travel books and peruse them at your leisure. Places you’ve always fancied going, wonders you must see, activities that you’ve never tried and generally things to breathe fresh life into you. Scary? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely! ​

On the other pages, I will make suggestions on planning for different climates. My luggage rules are one carry-on suitcase and a small under-seat rucksack for ALL trips. I will explain how to make this adjustment in your set thinking of how much to take. I went from minus 40 to plus 40 degrees on my last trip and managed with this small luggage allowance. This takes a huge amount of stress out of the equation and is the only way an old bird can manage without freaking, overtiring herself, making things unmanageable and possibly having things nicked. Trust me it’s much better and liberating.

“Wanderer, there is no road, the road is made by walking” – Martha Barron Barrett

2019-04-02

PACKING FOR HOT AND COLD

There is an amazing difference in types of heat worldwide. Each has its own challenges. I’ll try to guide you as well as I can in what can be much more trying and exhausting than the cold. Here first are a few things to do before you go to places of extremes. Health and safety always play a part in packing.  The lighter the case the less stress on your body but you have to be sure of what you actually need in that suitcase.

With age comes less resilience to extreme weather conditions. I would suggest joining a gym. Not only do you strengthen your cardiovascular system (you find yourself puffing and light-headed otherwise), but also your muscles. You’d be surprised at the amount of strength you need in your arms and legs for all the walking swimming and hiking you might want to get involved in. Let’s face it, it’s good for you anyway! And now you have a reason and goal to get in that gym and your local swimming pool. I have written sections about health and safety so you can search for those. It’s never too late to do some exercise and eat better, is it? And now you have a reason, it’ll be so much easier! All around, your being responsible for your travelling will give you the huge benefits of being healthier!

PACKING FOR HOT

With the heat comes inoculations and malaria tablets if you’re visiting any red zones. Your GP will help you sort this out. Anyhow your doc will tell you at the same time at your medical, go back for another one before you leave and after your fitness regime, you’ll be delighted with the improvement in your ” M.O.T. ” results! I have to say here, you don’t have to go great distances, especially if you have health problems. Consult with your doc and go for more modest trips. You will find your limits. The blog I will be publishing on Central Europe will probably be more up your street and so much to do there and easier travel with good infrastructure. BABY STEPS!!!

So on with the actual packing. I always try to pre-empt the economy airlines by packing a maximum of 8kg, in that way, you won’t get any nasty surprises. They love to weigh your case at the very last moment or indeed point at one of those cages where you can see if size-wise it’s too big. If going it alone you just don’t need all the extra crap. You are now a lean machine in more ways than one if you’ve listened to the health tips above.

Your hot climate packing list weighs in at a miserly 8kg for those economy flight requirements:

  • one pair of knee-length walking shorts and one pair of beach shorts
  • 4 t-shirts
  • one swimming costume and or bikini
  • one pretty skirt for evening ambles
  • one large and long cotton shirt for covering up after too much sun or going into religious buildings
  • one large and long cotton shirt for the beach which can be left salty
  • one evening top
  • one cover all loose dress
  • bra and undies
  • trainers
  • pretty evening shoes and flip-flops
  • A thin large sarong which can act as a beach towel and a cover for religious buildings

Weigh your case and if the weight allows, add extra bits that you feel you’d use. All heavy bits in a small rucksack for under the seat on the plane including your techy stuff and leads, chargers and batteries. your camera (mine’s an Olympus Tough which is for underwater too. When you’re snorkelling you can shoot stills AND videos.) and a Kindle if you like. Needless to say, you’ll have your liquids bag in there too for inspection at security. Take only small sizes of your favourite creams, perfume and deodorant pick up the rest when you get there.

YOUR BUMBAG WILL HAVE YOUR PASSPORT AND ANY IMPORTANT PAPERS, YOUR PURSE WITH SOME FOREIGN CURRENCY AND EMERGENCY MONEY, YOUR PHONE AND VERY IMPORTANTLY, YOUR DEBIT OR CREDIT CARDS. YOU MUST INFORM YOUR BANK AS TO WHERE YOU’RE GOING AND FOR HOW LONG SO THEY DON’T CANCEL YOUR CARD WHILST YOU’RE AWAY. THE ATM IS YOUR MAIN FRIEND ABROAD!

PACKING FOR THE COLD

This was the hardest type of travelling to get right, especially when entering hot places later. The rule of thumb is to travel in your thick and heavy clothes and have your layering clothes in the case. As usual, you will carry your precious things,  laptop, iPad, batteries wires etc, your camera and heavy extras in your rucksack. Normally they want your carry-on suitcase to be not over 8 kg. This is MUCH MORE THAN YOU IMAGINE!

I had my Russian military coat for that trip, which was superb. Most of the time I only needed a long-sleeved T-shirt underneath and the usual double layer of fleecy leggings. Good quality gloves, thick natural wool socks specialist boots for freezing conditions. Apart from leggings, thermal t-shirts and your underwear a big knitted zipper jacket with a fleece lining. Some thin T-shirts and a cotton shirt and trousers for the train, which is super hot. All clothing should be easily put on and taken off in layers. The boots should be able to slip on if you leave the laces loosely tied. Take a light smart shirt and trousers in case you do fancy a night out,  ( It’ll never happen you’ll be too knackered ) and trainers. Flip flops are handy for the train and hotter places you go later. Finally your hat, your lovely warm furry hat. My ushanka saved my face in Siberia one day when the wind chill went down to -40.

I’m afraid to say with ‘cold weather’ light packing, you’ll have to be inventive. Until you actually board the plane you might need to wear many layers of clothing. I have been seen schlepping around an airport sweating profusely due to my many layers of “heavy” clothes sticking damply to my body. Trust me it’s worth it, you can peel off the extra stuff on the plane and shove it into your dinky suitcase and cool off again. The large vodka you drink after is your reward and you can say a cheers to me while drinking it.

Your cold climate packing list weighs in again at a miserly 8 kg for those economy flight requirements:

  • long windproof warm coat
  • 1 hooded zipper cardigan jacket with fleece lining
  • specialist boots
  • ushanka and good gloves
  • 5 varied thermal and non-thermal t-shirts
  • 3 pairs of furry leggings and 2 pairs of loose trousers
  • loose light tracksuit bottoms and top for the train cabin lounging
  • very light posh top and thin trousers for evening wear
  • smart trainers
  • 2 sports bras and 5 pairs of pants
  • Medical kit. Pain killers, eye drops, nasal spray, plasters, a good supply of any medications you’re on and multivitamins. See your doctor before the trip for a medical consultation. [I had Lemsip on this list and I laugh at how dependent I was on crap like that. Buy lemon and honey when you’re there and have a pocketful of cloves, cinnamon, and dried organic herbal teas ]

On all my trips I take my trusty iPad and laptop on which I do all my bookings, watch downloaded films and listen to audiobooks.

YOUR BUMBAG WILL HAVE YOUR PASSPORT AND ANY IMPORTANT PAPERS, YOUR PURSE WITH SOME FOREIGN CURRENCY AND EMERGENCY MONEY, YOUR PHONE AND VERY IMPORTANTLY, YOUR DEBIT OR CREDIT CARDS. YOU MUST INFORM YOUR BANK AS TO WHERE YOU’RE GOING AND FOR HOW LONG SO THEY DON’T CANCEL YOUR CARD WHILST YOU’RE AWAY. THE ATM IS YOUR MAIN FRIEND ABROAD!

2019-04-05

BEACH, NATURE OR CULTURE (CULCHER)

You might want both so some info and inspiration about the two opposite trips. Sex on the beach, or a bit of culcher. To be honest I always think I’d love to chill on a beach but after ten minutes I’m bored. Beach stuff always incorporates snorkelling, boats, hiking and fucking around looking for a good beach bar. Archaeology and art always take precedence which is another reason for travelling alone, for that in itself can create a tinderbox of arguments if you’re with someone. And natural beauty, and flora and fauna of course sort of mix with both.

“Do not stop thinking of life as an adventure. You have no security unless you can live bravely, excitingly, imaginatively, unless you can choose a challenge instead of a competence.”   Eleanor Roosevelt

On all my trips I have to have access to history and art.  As an artist myself I find inspiration and happiness by always going to places where I can plan a circuit of the major museum and historical sights. The planning of this can be done on the road. It’s half the fun. Wonderful Google Maps will let you mark places of interest and even give you the best walking route. I request museums first and mark them and then galleries etc as well. Then a heart marker for where you’re staying.  If things are near enough always walk. You absorb your environment, get an idea of the layout of the area, and you will be able to spot good restaurants and bars for later or indeed straight away to rest your trotters! It’s a surefire way of feeling confident in your territory, aware of shortcuts, and saving money! Taxis are all very well for inaccessible places but you never get the feel of the place.

Go to the local Government Information Centre for maps and advice on the local public transport. They will give you a good map of the area which will open to a larger area than your iPad. It’s an extra tool and weighs nothing. Do not be tempted by other information centres that will hard sell you into expensive trips with exactly the sort of people you don’t want to mix with!

There will be large sections on archaeology as well, and the sometimes murderous journeys to get to the sites (cave paintings on an island in Sicily and Mexico for example) If want to go to places where tourists rarely roam you have to go on more tortuous journeys with more planning involved! This is part of your wonderful adventure.

WATER SPORTS

Do go to your local baths and swim a little and practice with your goggles again, or just have a practice day at the beach or pool at the onset of your wet trip. If you can scuba, a refresher course is wise. I’m a relatively strong swimmer my style is a random side stroke but you can run into trouble when you’re enraptured and not concentrating as my next tale of woe will inform you.

Long story story short I swam from a boat with this lovely turtle for twenty minutes out to sea. I was mesmerized. She waited for me each time I stopped swimming next to her. I fell in love with her beautiful and graceful gliding through the water, turning her head ponderously from side to side to eat jellyfish. Wet trip at its best but also most dangerous. I was so busy filming I hadn’t realised I had swum about a quarter of a mile out. I was told off by the crew and suffered heatstroke after!

Top Tip: Stranger danger, swimming alone and safekeeping of valuables will be covered in later blogs. However, rule of thumb is if if you’re at a very isolated beach or indeed anywhere, you must be aware if an isolated person arrives on your turf. If a woman it’s normally OK but better to say hello and sniff out how you feel about them. If a man and they start hanging around too close for comfort in a place that clearly has a lot of space, sorry but you’ll need to move on and avoid eye contact. Just like you would if you come across a wild dog. Don’t be friendly be very neutral and act as if you were leaving anyway. Only skinny dip if you have a clear view in both directions and can cover your modesty in plenty of time.

Well, we can get down and dirty now and start with my story, my book, my life of the last five hectic years. An emotional ride of the very ups and very downs and all my love in between. Hop on board girls we’re writing a book!!!

OVER AND OUT FROM AN OLD BIRD NAVIGATING A NEW ADVENTURE X