Alert: Posting this hurriedly, had a dramatic fall, bash and crash in my studio on Sunday so have been busy with that drama as I thought I might have broken my wrist. I still in a very British way have continued with my plan (stiff upper lip and all that) and am in the heaven that is Punta Allen. I’ll post the drama next. I’m bruised from head to toe and can only really write with the one hand so am even slower than normal!

Bashed up wrist and hand

It’s fair to say my road trip had been rather bumpy thus far. I threw a terrible hissy about Palenque and hated Campeche but loved Edzna and the two museums in Campeche. Highs and lows I’m used to but when you check thoroughly your adventure and none of the official sites have updated how limited they are and what areas are now closed etc, you get really angry. I needed a bit of a decent hotel where I could regroup. On the bus ride I was practically muttering out loud what foul things I would say to them and to bloody Google who have disappeared six months of my, and a lot of other peoples it would seem, photos and fucking memories.

Arriving at Xpuhil I just had a two minute walk from the bus station to my lovely little hotel and a lovely young chap had stayed up for my rather late arrival of just before midnight. It was the most immaculate hotel ever and my room had an inset balcony and a huge bed and shower room. The bedding all seemed brand new and the pillows were super comfy. I unpacked a much happier bunny and organised myself properly for the first time on my road trip. I slept like a baby.

View from my terrace

The town itself is very small and more of a drive through with a lot of lorries and cafes open all night for lorry drivers. I went out for my breakfast to one of these for a massive really tasty plate of three eggs, ham and mushrooms with a lovely cuppa tea. I have found that you just ask for black tea and some milk and I got myself two steaming mugs of it and some juice. On this positive note I strolled up the road to visit the unexpected Xpuhil ruins and it started a very good day.


Although really beaten up they only had one couple there who I chatted to. They too were hanging out in Mexico as they came from the now draconian Canada and were doing more or less the same as me. They too had felt frustrated at the lack of information about closures.

This strange three tower arrangement at some point had been a magnificent structure. A structure nearby had evidently been the dwelling of a posh family and the sign challenged you to find the holes where they put curtain rods for cotton curtains against the suns heat with benches and beds behind. None of us could find these fanciful holes but it was fun looking.

A plaque with a how it would have looked like and a bit of old bird shit
…..and how it looks now.

Xpuhil is within a zone characterized by the Rio Bec style of architecture. This style of architecture consists of structures featuring faux temple towers with steep, non-functioning stairways and doors. The structures are made with a high quality of stone carving forming mosaic decorations such as serpents in profile and checkerboard tablets, of both high and low relief. The towers exhibit nice rounded corners. It is thought that this design was a possible attempt to mimic the structures found at Tikal. Nearby sites include Becan, Rio Bec, Xpuhil, and Chicanna.

First peep at the three towers

Likely a subordinate community for Becán, Xpujil has enjoyed a long period of occupation. Archeological evidence shows that Xpujil was populated as early as 300 BC in the Preclassic Period. Most of the buildings were constructed between 600 and 800 AD in the Late Classic period when the central ceremonial core with residential buildings for the city’s elite were built.

Poor old Earth Monster mask carving the worse for wear

The site was abandoned shortly after 1200 AD. As with many ancient sites the exact reason is not known.
It was rediscovered in 1938.

Later that Day.

I had opted for a gentle day so after that very pleasant amble I went and successfully and without drama withdrew money for a slap up dinner. I was more optimistic and bought some beers to quaff whilst sitting on my little balcony. I spent the rest of the day there while researching Calakmul which I was getting very excited about apart from the splendid pyramids it had a Grand Acropolis that was a sight to be seen (or not in my case) I then walked up the road to a well reviewed restaurant and bliss, there was wine on the menu. Good wine. I plumped for a ribeye steak, pomme puree and some mixed vegetables. It was bloody delicious. Posh nosh and a nice dress on for a change I sat outside on the terrace and watched the juggernauts fly by.

Top Tip: Now I never have a problem eating alone in restaurants, I know some of you say you get anxious or embarrassed. Be a princess and mull over what you’ve seen and done that day. Make you plans for the next and before you know it you won’t give a shit. For god sakes don’t retreat into your bloody mobile phone it’s very common and only allowed if you need some information for your plans the next day. Just savour your food and drink and think how lucky you are to be doing these grand things in this beautiful world. I know I did that night especially. That dinner was superb, who’d have thought they would have a brand new good quality restaurant in town just for moi.