OR ALL THE FISH YOU COULD WANT AND A SEA COW.
I am writing this on the way back to Flores from Caye Caulker. I am brown and sweaty sitting on the bus nearly at the Guatemala border and have a long journey ahead to reach my final destination of Lake Atitlan and it’s volcanoes.

Belize requires it’s pound of flesh of twenty US dollars to leave! All’s well now though so I can tell you about caye caulker. You get a water taxi there and arrive at a typical little Caribbean island with brightly coloured little houses, palm trees hammocks and reggae.

Although they have golf cart taxis you’ll not be further than a five minute walk to your hotel it’s that dinky. I had the fabulous and inexpensive Blue Surf Guest House and lovely JERRY welcomed me. I had a sea view first floor balcony and it served its purpose very well as I did ALL my washing as my case had a malodorous pong to it as opened as did most of my clothes. I also passed many an hour people watching as I got sloshed on their very cheap coconut rum.
How divine to have the scent of washing powder, sun and sea air in my clothes, every last single item of which flapped merrily in the breeze.

This terrace was also to serve as my bar in the evening as I sloshed down coconut rum and coke on low slung chairs as I people watched over the fence balcony. The wonderful thing about this sort of environment is that your hangover disappears immediately in the furnace like heat and your first swim off any jetty you find near. The open air kitchen in the hotel is great to rustle up a big breakfast ingredients purchased from any one of the many Chinese supermarkets on the island. Yes I did say Chinese. They have the monopoly of ALL of them!


I made English tea for my sins , had boiled eggs for the first time in two months, baked beans and cheese! Comfort breakfasts par excellence as other meals at restaurants were pricey.



I spent my first day drinking beer on the beach having secured a full days snorkelling for the following day and of course that washing had to be done.
I’m a smiley person so I got on really well with the residents who are lovely laid back people. It was the first time this trip I had real heat which I love and sea fish. They are quite keen on lobster there which they cook on old drum BBQs and as long as you tell them not to cook it too long and keep it juicy it’s a real treat. I had my tails on a table in the water and gazing out to sea.

The ubiquitous beans and rice and meat stews are the staple there and very good too, but the best eats are the sea fish which I hadn’t had fresh since Trujillo





OVER AND OUT FROM A RUM SOAKED REBECCA X