Category: ALERTS AND TOP TIPS FOR SOLO TRAVEL.

Helpful advice that my experiences have taught me so you don’t have to make mistakes. I do it for you!

SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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TURKEY, (OR HUNGARY) HERE I COME. AN OLD LOST POST…

OR, THE POST THAT GOT AWAY SIX YEARS AGO.

Just looked through some stuff to clear the space so to speak and discovered this. From huge opulence to poverty is indeed an interesting spectacle. So just for old times sakes, a time when I had more options open to me!

BULGARIA IS OFF THE LIST, TURKEY (OR HUNGARY) IS THE WINNER.

“After years of debating where I’ll put down roots, Turkey is now the clear winner due to it not taking shit from everyone and protecting its sovereignty. Hungary came in a close second but sadly, is landlocked. I might yet eat my words and still opt for there, but I think it’s settled…..”

Turkey is the victor! Years ago in Xania

Well, that’s already old news as I am looking at Hungary again as my cousin reminded me he has a place there and my old mate is also there. The rapid changes and logistics these days make it a head-whirring descent into hell.

Try as one might, finding a place in Europe is now not as easy as it used to be when you want to travel and live solo in this dystopian new world. I just want a place to grow my own stuff and return to making my sculpture. Too difficult? Apparently, it is.

Any suggestions on my plight to get off-grid as much as possible?

Here I will show some of my previous Turkey tasters that led me to the final conclusion of where I want to be. Obviously, I would have chosen Mexico, were it not so far and that I speak Spanish, and adore it but with this tumultuous ever-shifting dystopia harsh decisions have to be made.

Turkey it is. (Well maybe!)

Anyway I’ll now add my experience of Hungary to the end of this ffs

Now I just have to find my small farm with a fruit orchard (most have over there) and vineyard. I will build an outdoor kiln to make my ceramics and hopefully do a modest trade in my wares.

A rose from the harems rose garden that was abloom when I was there

TURKEY

My last trips over there were either with my pal Sam to cheap and cheerful destinations such as Dalyan and Xania for beach and a bit of ‘kulcha’ (for indeed there is a lot of both there)

My other trip there was very high-end on a luxury yacht owned by my then-partner. It was a difference such as chalk and cheese and I wouldn’t really have remembered much without the photos on an old decrepit, very temperamental hard drive.

It was a revelation to see what remained of these pics as it was pre-Google so there were no memories to be found in the cloud there. It was a horrible shock and made me very pleased that I had been very diligent back then in my pre-blog days to download at least some of the memories which I will share with you all now. This leads me to a top tip.

Top Tip: Old birds do not trust the Cloud in any form. I horrifically lost a bunch of old stuff which was irreplaceable and have lamented long and hard about those photographs and videos that I relied on, to jerk my memory, as well as illustrate travels. Go through the photos each trip methodically and select and download to your computer and then to a decent external hard drive. You then always have the pics chosen of your trip at hand with or without WiFi. There is much to be said not to be slothful with these tidy organised practises, and execute them as second nature. You never know what might happen in the future and you don’t want your precious stuff being held to ransom or wholly lost. Beware, and follow my advice.

TURKEY, A FEW YEARS BACK.

I found most of my pics from the excellent journey I had on the ‘Soho’ boat and so will begin with this trip which would take me across to the Greek Islands and finally to Athens where the boat was over-wintering and going into dry dock.

The big boat in the luxury days.

I don’t have dates on these photos but remember flying to Istanbul to a huge wild crowd at the airport as it was a public holiday of some merit it would appear. It was a solo travellers nightmare as this is the time you need to be able to keep your place in a queue while nipping off for any extra paperwork that might need filling and stamping by bored and difficult officials that give not a shit to your predicament. I know it took about two hours and then another hour to sort the cab and get to the boat. It boded ill as I felt shaky at the fuss there and could only remember ‘Midnight Express’ while waiting and feeling more and more intimidated. I am naturally a guilty person and although I knew I was doing nothing wrong was a nervous, ticky, shaky wreck after the torture at the airport.

An outing on the Bosphorus

It took a bucket of wine and fags to talk me down from hysteria when I arrived on board.

Continue reading TURKEY, (OR HUNGARY) HERE I COME. AN OLD LOST POST…
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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MEXICO TRIP, LEAVING HOMUN HEARTBROKEN,CANCUN LAST STOP.

OR LAST TERRIBLE PUSH BEFORE HOME.

Long and weary flight home after just one month

This post is months late due to a particularly chaotic patch in my life (yes, more than normal!) I’m back on course now so here we go with last of Mexico posts and a follow up with my floods, buggered back, wonderful acupuncture with my old Chinese professor and a dreadful trip to Spain!

It was no good, I was running out of time. I had stayed many days in Homun and spent many happy hours understanding what your best life can be like and it definitely was here. After my birthday and the visit to Neekluum followed by a massive hangover, I started to feel the call of the road again. I would need to go back to Merida by the collectivo then go on to catch an ADO to Valladolid, there I would spend the night and then go on to Cancun for some beach before leaving to London. It was a boring awkward trip and I managed to fuck it up and hate it in equal proportions.

Happy by the tree of life in Homun. Leaving was agony for me.

Obviously leaving my new family was awkward and traumatic. As all solo travellers will know, when you bond on the road it’s surprisingly difficult saying your goodbyes. The flowing conversation evaporates and foolish clichés creep in to the stilted conversation and dragging silences. That’s why I always plump for a rapid running away with just a shout over my shoulder of ‘tata, love you!’ and just my vague outline scurrying off in a dust cloud that envelopes me. This was impossible with Dulce and Aleph as they were giving me a lift in the bicycle taxi to the town centre and Dulce was dragging her heels having got more maudlin and glum than me if that’s possible. We cuddled and whimpered and went to do another unnecessary task before repeating the hugging. It was truly awful and terribly upsetting even when I wrote obscenities in their guest book at their childlike request. ‘Say that thing you said about that man with the tequila!’ they implored. I looked at them doubtfully ‘With all the swearing ?’ I asked nervously. Yes yes they wanted that. They looked at me with joyful expectant faces so I wrote some foul language about the poor fellow (did we hate him that much?) . Then I had to write a list of silly Spanish expressions that I had used ad nauseum that they loved. With eyes sparking they revelled in those along with the initial loving comments I had made about their lovely little homestead business. Yeah, yeah that was all very well but they wanted all the potty mouth things that I said in English too and my mean comments about other innocent yet irritating guests. This filled up a good amount of time as they would remember other things that must go in, dodgy anecdotes et al, and would drag me back to scribble more.

Continue reading MEXICO TRIP, LEAVING HOMUN HEARTBROKEN,CANCUN LAST STOP.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels

CENOTES AND CAVES OF REBIRTH.

OR, MY CHANCE AT SHRUGGING OFF PHOBIAS AND GETTING DARK AND DEEP.

Cenote, from the incorrect Spanish pronunciation of the Yucatan Mayan word ts’ono’ot (dzonot) or “well with water”. However these underground and sometimes over ground places (leading to the underground) were venerated magical and sacred sites used for ceremonies. Their Underworld was a place for death and life or xibalba, evoking the type of rebirth that I clumsily have tried to express, where you can grow your consciousness and overcome all the negative that has swamped your soul in the earthly realm. Where the Mayan Gods dwell.

Look at top of photo, only a thin amount of rock separates cave and house above

I love you all, my naughty old birds out there, let’s get to some more happiness and actually bravery on my behalf, a harsh climb down into the bowels of the earth to a magical cave without fairies but a whole bunch of mystical energy. You’ll have to use your imagination a whole load as it was too surreal for belief, and didn’t tolerate photos well. The fancy pics I’ve seen have been heavily doctored and certainly taken with a better camera than my dirty old phone one. It’s better for you to imagine this small cavern complex and derive the same chills and fierce energy through words and imagination.

Continue reading CENOTES AND CAVES OF REBIRTH.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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HAPPINESS IN HOMUN!

OR DAZED AND AMAZED AS I FIND A NEW FAMILY!

Mi casa es tu casa bitches!

My collectivo van from Merida was finally simple to get and oh what heaven to escape from the sad remnants of that fine city of Merida. I squeezed on the very busy little bus with my bags half on my lap and half under my legs and basically in the way wherever I squidged them, but at least I was on my way. The tourists aboard seemed terribly excited to escape also, it seems that I wasn’t the only person crushed with disappointment with Merida’s recent unpleasant and frenetic transformation. We bumped along merrily for an hour on boring roads and motorways until suddenly we turned off and the scenery completely changed. We were on the extensive reserve of Homun. An oasis of cenotes and ranches and a place to escape to. Instantly I felt calmed and we tourists were hushed. The locals gradually got off in their various villettes for a normal days work and we waited to also be disgorged from the bus for more glamorous escapades.

Palms and unmade roads on the way to my tucked away heaven

My stop was on the main road before the centre and involved a short walk dragging my case up a small road away from civilisation. I finally felt at peace and knew in my heart that I was coming home. This dusty track was leading me to happiness and would soothe my soul.

Upon arrival just ‘Hostal’ sufficed and the mummy dog seeking shade

The hand painted signs periodically nailed to trees announcing ‘Hostal Oro Verde’ kept my spirits up as I left the tarmac and was on a single path leading into the countryside. Cows mooed, dogs barked and birdies sang, but above all my path was strewn with butterflies that would be disturbed by my footfall and fly up in clouds of glorious colours. Mostly orange but also yellow and some mauve. It was then I noticed the heady aroma of grass and wild herbs and it was then that I knew I would finally be able to rest my weary head, for this indeed was paradise.

At sunset before it gets really nippy

AT LAST, HOME SWEET HOME.

My table outside so I could monitor all who went by like a good nosy neighbour
Continue reading HAPPINESS IN HOMUN!
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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CALAKMUL DISAPPOINTS AGAIN

OR YOU’LL NEED TO TAKE OUT A SECOND MORGAGE FOR THIS SAD SHOW

I really don’t know why I bothered apart from the excitement of a new city found up the road from Calakmul and Xpujil called Valeriana. Literally I thought that people would be able to amble in and I vaguely remembered security being lax around most sites, but more importantly there being a few gates of access. Not just the one.

By the way I’ve thrown in some random vids because I was aware of the rather negative content he he.

Things seemed so groovy and casual back in the day in Mexicos Yucatan and now it’s turned into little America but with military presence everywhere. It’s tragic how history repeats itself and the Latin Mexicans are busy victimising the indigenous groups and destroying just a little more of their homeland and also smashing down huge swathes of virgin jungle. Ooh the new president Claudia Sheinbaum, she’s so cool and green, although she’s not though is she?

See bottom of page for full howling experience!

Anyhoo, it would seem that the relationship with America will now be a sore topic so I doubt she will be giving any thought at all to other issues apart from building camps for the huge amount of deported Mexicans that are being deported. I suppose it will be ‘watch this space’ as to their policies with the States go from now on.

Calakmul. IN 2021 ALL CLOSED UP AFTER THEY LURE YOU IN.

The brief mention given in 21.

“This is another example of closed sections at famous pyramids. Another scam in times of ‘plague

Continue reading CALAKMUL DISAPPOINTS AGAIN
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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CHICCANA, ANOTHER MAYAN GEM. OH AND HORMIGUERO!

OR,CHICANNA IN SPITTING DISTANCE OF BECAN, AND HORMIGUERO A RIGHT OLD TREK

The much lauded serpent portal but on the top of a high turret

HORMIGUERO A FORGOTTEN SITE IN MANY WAYS.

Three buildings very much like this

Whilst halfway through writing this I suddenly remembered that in fact my adventure started first thing in the morning with a booked cab that I had organised the day before to go to Horminguro dammit! You see what happens when you’re a bad, tired and grumpy old bird and don’t write your journal? I had totally forgotten poor old Hormiguero (Anthill) and possibly if you have a busy agenda so should you.

A few stacked Chaacs (rain gods) as well as many other motifs

I had in fact got very excited and planned this trip with a cabbie. I had heard it was a very unusual and nearly never visited set of ruins only partially excavated. What they mean to say is only the big interesting intact bits were bothered with and the place is a very shady quite sad place.

My impression was that the three misaligned very similar imposing structures, unimaginatively called South, Central and North Structures were almost like a bunch of bureaucratic beasts of the jungle. They are very sturdy and practical looking but they do surprisingly contain a lot of elaborately embellished doorways and panels. One also has the largest serpent doorway but that was up on high and the ground was slick with dew. I didn’t fancy a tumble so just took my images from below. If you were to come her I again would come for the atmosphere and maybe a walk in the jungle where there’s a lot of wildlife, I think you can even camp there which would be splendid!

I take it all back this was an amazing site

I just couldn’t shake my unfair immediate reaction to it being municipal and less Gormanghast and more Croydon, but then again I am very instantly judgemental about these things.

I have researched a bit but can’t get any straight answers except about what a lovely example of Chenes blah blah blah. I felt cheated although it was imposing in its own way but a bit boring and that was the reason I left early moaning to myself. On the way out I just had a nice chat to the two chaps who are its guardians but were very young and not a bit interested in its history or their ancestors work. This was annoying as I thought they might at least shed some light on its history. It was all rather sad and damp and dark and unloved.

Continue reading CHICCANA, ANOTHER MAYAN GEM. OH AND HORMIGUERO!
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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BEST RUINS EASILY ACCESSIBLE FROM XPUJIL.Becán.

OR, A BIT OF JUNGLE AND ATMOSPHERE AFTER THE NEWLY RUINED YUCATAN.

I’m not going to bang on today about the shit stuff that I experienced wandering around Mexico at the end of last year, oh I’m not a whiner, you know me better than that. Yesterday is yesterday, fair does.

Becán

While researching this I came across Román Piña Chan, a very famous archaeologist, a tragic afterthought in Mexican research history, specifically that of Becan where he had the accident on that ill fated day. I wanted to include him as he sounded a dear, meek man who suffered hugely for his passion. Bedbound for seventeen years after the spirits of Becan let him fall to his fate.

A unique quiet moment to enjoy the classical arched corridor

Below is his small obituary, as modest it would seem as he was, and although translated quirkily I feel fitting for the man who it seems also discovered the Olmec figures and contributed hugely to the field

✔ Posthumous tribute to the archaeologist in the National Museum of Anthropology

Piña Chan was a generous being and always needed know yourself loved and accepted, says Beatriz Barba

ത Locate the recent find in Becán, Campeche, as part of his legacy

JIMENEZ ARTURE

CHANIn 1984, Román Piña Chan fell from a pyramid from the archaeological zone of Becán, an accident that although not managed to remove him from the investigation, the reflection and teaching did limit their ability to move.

Continue reading BEST RUINS EASILY ACCESSIBLE FROM XPUJIL.Becán.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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MEXICOS TRAIN WRECK,TREN MAYA AND XPUJIL.

OR TRAVELLING TO A TOWN THAT’S LOST ITS IDENTITY AND HEART. POOR XPUHIL.

Me praying to the Mayan gods at Calakmul that no more damage would be done to their sacred land

Alert: Latest article about Tren Maya that proves what I say in the below account has turned out right! It’s white elephant era has begun surprisingly quickly! Don’t want to say I told you so but, I told you so he he!!! Apparently it’s being operated by the military? I don’t know about you but a military run tourist route never has left me with a warm and snuggly feeling in my belly as a traveller. Do read the article it’s accidently extremely funny. It also says

“Today, the Maya Train is not a tourist product that can be offered. There are no clear routes, there are no defined prices, not even the schedules are well established,” he commented noting that travel agencies have not yet had any contact regarding train promotion.

“If they had a developed product, they would be here at tourist events, explaining what time it leaves, how much it costs, in what languages it is available. But we don’t know anything, everything remains a mystery,”

In other words it’s a huge cock up!

Good old Trans Siberian Express an iconic train if ever there was one

Alert: Here I mostly ramble on about getting to the prime archaeological sites area and the place I used as a base, Xpujil or Xpuhil. The inner fury I felt upon having seen first hand, Tren Mayas long hard line of destruction and devastation of the area rather overtook my original intention of just writing about the sites that I went to. Mexico generally had been a shocker since my last visit and sadly you can clearly hear my disappointment in a place that just three years ago I had worshipped. If you don’t care then I will publish a post tomorrow about the actual sites I went to while there!

And so back to the post:

The Journey to Xpuhil

Me praying to the Mayan gods at Calakmul that no more damage would be done to their sacred land

Riding on the bus away from beastly Bacalar and started on my real road trip! Hooray I’m leaving and going to revisit Xpuhil to use as a base to visit surrounding archaeological sites that I missed last time. I celebrated on that bus to Chetumal after dragging my case miles from my little pension in the midday sun, and was ready to wait there for a couple of hours to get my connection. So in theory I should arrive at my cabin before it’s too late to feel safe, although it will be dark. Upon my joyous arrival (I had so hated Bacalar that any shit hole was now paradise!) I also found that I could buy an earlier ticket upon arrival the bus station, which was a huge relief, rather than the later one which would have involved me waiting five hours and much sighing and whining. However, I still had over an hour to kill and I was suddenly famished.

Continue reading MEXICOS TRAIN WRECK,TREN MAYA AND XPUJIL.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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BACALAR, LAKES AND SUNRISE IN MEXICO.

OR, HOSTELS LIKE HOME!

I have had to backtrack to revisit my horrible experience in Bacalar, and am still digesting the no go areas advice that I would give for present day Mexico and the things still worthwhile and to be explored. Just thinking about it makes me have a panic attack as do a few places this time, so before that, I’ll finish the hateful Bacalar moan then can go onto the lovely parts of my trip which really was the archaeology and my lovely new family in Homun of course!

Breath-taking sunrise over the lagoon

After the trials and tribulations of my journey down from Tulum (coconut oil leaking in my rucksack, late bus, rip off taxi from ADO bus station in Bacalar and not being able to find my hostel!) I finally settled into my modest but lovely accommodation and breathed a sigh of relief. I’d forgotten that however experienced, we all can cock up sometimes when travelling solo.

Continue reading BACALAR, LAKES AND SUNRISE IN MEXICO.