This post is months late due to a particularly chaotic patch in my life (yes, more than normal!) I’m back on course now so here we go with last of Mexico posts and a follow up with my floods, buggered back, wonderful acupuncture with my old Chinese professor and a dreadful trip to Spain!
It was no good, I was running out of time. I had stayed many days in Homun and spent many happy hours understanding what your best life can be like and it definitely was here. After my birthday and the visit to Neekluum followed by a massive hangover, I started to feel the call of the road again. I would need to go back to Merida by the collectivo then go on to catch an ADO to Valladolid, there I would spend the night and then go on to Cancun for some beach before leaving to London. It was a boring awkward trip and I managed to fuck it up and hate it in equal proportions.
Happy by the tree of life in Homun. Leaving was agony for me.
Obviously leaving my new family was awkward and traumatic. As all solo travellers will know, when you bond on the road it’s surprisingly difficult saying your goodbyes. The flowing conversation evaporates and foolish clichés creep in to the stilted conversation and dragging silences. That’s why I always plump for a rapid running away with just a shout over my shoulder of ‘tata, love you!’ and just my vague outline scurrying off in a dust cloud that envelopes me. This was impossible with Dulce and Aleph as they were giving me a lift in the bicycle taxi to the town centre and Dulce was dragging her heels having got more maudlin and glum than me if that’s possible. We cuddled and whimpered and went to do another unnecessary task before repeating the hugging. It was truly awful and terribly upsetting even when I wrote obscenities in their guest book at their childlike request. ‘Say that thing you said about that man with the tequila!’ they implored. I looked at them doubtfully ‘With all the swearing ?’ I asked nervously. Yes yes they wanted that. They looked at me with joyful expectant faces so I wrote some foul language about the poor fellow (did we hate him that much?) . Then I had to write a list of silly Spanish expressions that I had used ad nauseum that they loved. With eyes sparking they revelled in those along with the initial loving comments I had made about their lovely little homestead business. Yeah, yeah that was all very well but they wanted all the potty mouth things that I said in English too and my mean comments about other innocent yet irritating guests. This filled up a good amount of time as they would remember other things that must go in, dodgy anecdotes et al, and would drag me back to scribble more.
OR, VIEWING A SELF CONTAINED PARADISE THAT I COULD MAKE MY FOREVER HOME.
Not a wedding but a birthday!
Well I stayed on. What could I do, such was my love for my new family and the lush, mellow and inspiring environment.
A mixture of the good bad and the ugly on my Mexico trip
As soon as Dulce lured me with a suggestion of a birthday party for me then I was convinced that I had to stay for at least that. What would I do? Go sit on my lonesome in some frankly half rate town on my way back to Cancun (sorry Valladolid but you are a bit second rate!) I extended my booking and also in that way had the chance to go with her to view a new enterprise, a living breathing escape plan for the like-minded. An all encompassing plan for the future of those who really want to go off grid on a permanent basis. This was a huge opportunity for me for it had really been the reason for this trip to Mexico. I had spoken to a family member about having a deep search while I was here, which I had been doing but it had become a dismal failure thus far. Here however magic happens and exactly what I was looking for fell into my lap like a plump, fresh, rosy apple just fallen from the tree. Its name being Neekluum. More on that later however, we are just getting to that.
My days there were all birthdays really, lolling around and picking herbs to identify, roaming the fields and ranches around, talking to cows and drinking beer. Dulce and I would gossip idly and I would try to write in a lazy desultory way then rush off up the path to the wilderness for a quick explore and adventure (like meeting a new cow or finding more ruins of old huge ranch houses.)
On my birthday it was the same except for Dulce getting glammed up for the viewing and me starting to whine about when we were going and where could I find tequila for my fucking birthday for gods sake? I was getting princessy and petulant and threatening not to go anywhere if we didn’t go now. Well it was my birthday and I had survived living through the demonic year of being 66. Also I was born on 6/12 so it was all very sixy, too many sixes in other words and I feared that I would die before I saw this satanic age out. I had now hit 67 so it was a huge cause for celebration. I had banged on about it enough ffs. Didn’t they understand my very superstitious numerological stance on this issue?
The buildings are gradually creeping up on this massive project that I so fell in love with.
Of course this was all very easy and the wonderful owner of this new venture picked us up and off we went to have a look at this jungle paradise. Jacqui and I immediately bonded as she explained the concept of this new off grid chance of a new life in this very beautiful part of the Yucatan peninsula. Although at an embryonic stage there were a few intrepid visionaries who had already bought lots and were building their properties, all of which were at different stages. She would show us the plans in the area that had already been assigned as a central meeting area when we arrived.
Ready to be renovated old windmill that also shows evidence around of previous buildings.
This gated property is of 250 acres of wild jungle which has been visualised for a community of like minded and only had some vague practical ‘rules’. This was all made clear on the wonderfully grubby set of plans she whacked out on the counter of their open community kitchen. It was huge and much like a village of kinds it had areas for the more social and for us more private creatures who only want to meet up on their terms. There is a large piece of land also allocated to larger creatures such as cows and horses which you couldn’t keep in your back garden, or llamas or whatever you can think of as long as they don’t eat other peoples animals of course, but I digress. There is already an area for chucks and ducks but you can have your own and depending on how many lots you want yo can grow your veg separately from the communal more allotment type area. She also explained the legality of foreigners is covered under a rather neat loophole and basically you get on and make what you will of the area you have bought. The miles of raw track we covered was just to show the various area allocations and I felt that this had been supremely well thought out. She held my heart in her hands when she said this, this was exactly what I yearned for. The red soil along that section was rich and it was a very lush area. The lots all have their little signposts and when you see a drilled borehole you know some lucky bastard has that site and has already drilled down to the substrata to reach the pure clean water below.
Wild and wonderful on the road inside Neekluum
Make no mistake, this is not for the faint hearted as it’s raw and brutal in its early stages, a shock to those who lack vision. Clearly this is all organic, no nasties on any level so that freedom to work at one with nature is yours to do what you will with. A lot of relearning and researching the old ways if you don’t already have at least a smattering of that kind of knowledge. Bartering will be encouraged and arts and crafts, evidently not just something to play at, but a necessity so as to allow the place to be self sustaining. Home schooling and the freedom for children to flourish and be children again, for families to be cherished and to be the stable influence that they have ceased to be in this modern blind and ugly world is the basis of the philosophy here. Listening to the birds giving a last hurrah for the day we left watching as the sun set on our way back down the country lanes. We were silent. So much to think about and so much peace for me to see that they did exist dammit, these havens did bloody exist.
THE PARTY.
The horrible harsh laugh as I’m getting pissed was before the tequila
We couldn’t track down a half bottle of tequila so I just settled for wine, little did I know that particular train would come in later. With the stars out and our little group of revellers assembled, we sat out front with birthday girls tinsel and foolishness surrounding her, wine being slurped and cake and fireworks igniting suddenly and dangerously and all the while some strange mixture of music. Oh and plus the obligatory ‘Happy Birthday’ song all was well with the world and I was enjoying being the centre of attention. This wasn’t to last however when a weird very pissed couple turned up who actually were the proud owners of a huge bottle of tequila. It was an accident waiting to happen, and although we shrieked and said the gods were looking after me when the couple announced we were welcome to share it with them, I did foresee disaster.
He seemed so well at the beginning
First though of course it was all very wonderful and we heard of their road trip so far (the car I noticed was parked precariously, and if I might say, rather to close to us) They already seemed hammered and that was me saying after drinking beer all day and having heavily embarked on the vino tinto. However we knocked those shots back of the very delicious tequila shouting wildly and laughing raucously at nothing in particular, certainly nothing that would be laughed at whilst sober. The girl looked Japanese of origin and he was Mexican but both resided in LA and were techies. They were rubbish drinkers. At some stage she realised that she had locked the keys in the car so had to borrow warm clothes from the ever suffering Dulce. They didn’t seem fazed for they knew a way to break in to the car. This they would do in the morning they slurred confidently. I saw the end of the tequila was in sight so suddenly I found their company less attractive and scuttled off to bed.
I would blearily recall a lot of footfall through the night but nothing that actually interfered with my sleep, my lovely selfish drunken sleep.
I had a brilliant vid of cake cutting and many more photos that sadly’ have disappeared
The next morning Dulce told me about the dramas of the night. The continuous projectile vomiting all night by the very fucked Mexican. Poor Dulce, as soon as she mopped up one rank acid pool of puke then he would stagger elsewhere to shit and puke copiously. She had to change his bed linen twice and generally it all had become a hideous drama that I thankfully slept through.
My first view of BDay zone table, more like getting married in a scary way
Also the breaking in of the car proved impossible and poor Aleph had to drive all the way to Merida to get a new one cut. Talk about above and beyond the call of duty. The key arrived and then that one didn’t actually work. These very irritating people were so entitled that they didn’t even seem bothered, indeed when the car was finally entered (don’t ask me how it had all become extremely boring by then) they decided to go on the cenote tour with a completely exhausted Aleph. I stayed most of the day in bed. I felt dreadful. It would seem that I too should have emptied my stomach so as not to have a very foul tequila hangover. It all reminded me of the drunken Mexican in Punta Allen. (click to see post) and also my stay in Villa Hermosa had had a shooting at the bar over the road with five fatalities which you can find at the end of that post. Seems the Mexicans are really rubbish and dangerous drinkers. It’s no good, they are really pants at having a nice knees up, it never ends well.
OR, MY CHANCE AT SHRUGGING OFF PHOBIAS AND GETTING DARK AND DEEP.
Cenote, from the incorrect Spanish pronunciation of the Yucatan Mayan word ts’ono’ot (dzonot) or “well with water”. However these underground and sometimes over ground places (leading to the underground) were venerated magical and sacred sites used for ceremonies. Their Underworld was a place for death and life or xibalba, evoking the type of rebirth that I clumsily have tried to express, where you can grow your consciousness and overcome all the negative that has swamped your soul in the earthly realm. Where the Mayan Gods dwell.
Look at top of photo, only a thin amount of rock separates cave and house above
I love you all, my naughty old birds out there, let’s get to some more happiness and actually bravery on my behalf, a harsh climb down into the bowels of the earth to a magical cave without fairies but a whole bunch of mystical energy. You’ll have to use your imagination a whole load as it was too surreal for belief, and didn’t tolerate photos well. The fancy pics I’ve seen have been heavily doctored and certainly taken with a better camera than my dirty old phone one. It’s better for you to imagine this small cavern complex and derive the same chills and fierce energy through words and imagination.
OR YOU’LL NEED TO TAKE OUT A SECOND MORGAGE FOR THIS SAD SHOW
I really don’t know why I bothered apart from the excitement of a new city found up the road from Calakmul and Xpujil called Valeriana. Literally I thought that people would be able to amble in and I vaguely remembered security being lax around most sites, but more importantly there being a few gates of access. Not just the one.
By the way I’ve thrown in some random vids because I was aware of the rather negative content he he.
Things seemed so groovy and casual back in the day in Mexicos Yucatan and now it’s turned into little America but with military presence everywhere. It’s tragic how history repeats itself and the Latin Mexicans are busy victimising the indigenous groups and destroying just a little more of their homeland and also smashing down huge swathes of virgin jungle. Ooh the new president Claudia Sheinbaum, she’s so cool and green, although she’s not though is she?
See bottom of page for full howling experience!
Anyhoo, it would seem that the relationship with America will now be a sore topic so I doubt she will be giving any thought at all to other issues apart from building camps for the huge amount of deported Mexicans that are being deported. I suppose it will be ‘watch this space’ as to their policies with the States go from now on.
Calakmul. IN 2021 ALL CLOSED UP AFTER THEY LURE YOU IN.
The brief mention given in 21.
“This is another example of closed sections at famous pyramids. Another scam in times of ‘plague
OR, A BIT OF JUNGLE AND ATMOSPHERE AFTER THE NEWLY RUINED YUCATAN.
I’m not going to bang on today about the shit stuff that I experienced wandering around Mexico at the end of last year, oh I’m not a whiner, you know me better than that. Yesterday is yesterday, fair does.
Becán
While researching this I came across RománPiña Chan, a very famous archaeologist, a tragic afterthought in Mexican research history, specifically that of Becan where he had the accident on that ill fated day. I wanted to include him as he sounded a dear, meek man who suffered hugely for his passion. Bedbound for seventeen years after the spirits of Becan let him fall to his fate.
A unique quiet moment to enjoy the classical arched corridor
Below is his small obituary, as modest it would seem as he was, and although translated quirkily I feel fitting for the man who it seems also discovered the Olmec figures and contributed hugely to the field
✔ Posthumous tribute to the archaeologist in the National Museum of Anthropology
Piña Chan was a generous being and always needed know yourself loved and accepted, says Beatriz Barba
ത Locate the recent find in Becán, Campeche, as part of his legacy
JIMENEZ ARTURE
In 1984, Román Piña Chan fell from a pyramid from the archaeological zone of Becán, an accident that although not managed to remove him from the investigation, the reflection and teaching did limit their ability to move.
OR TRAVELLING TO A TOWN THAT’S LOST ITS IDENTITY AND HEART. POOR XPUHIL.
Me praying to the Mayan gods at Calakmul that no more damage would be done to their sacred land
Alert: Latest article about Tren Maya that proves what I say in the below account has turned out right! It’s white elephant era has begun surprisingly quickly! Don’t want to say I told you so but, I told you so he he!!! Apparently it’s being operated by the military? I don’t know about you but a military run tourist route never has left me with a warm and snuggly feeling in my belly as a traveller. Do read the article it’s accidently extremely funny. It also says
“Today, the Maya Train is not a tourist product that can be offered. There are no clear routes, there are no defined prices, not even the schedules are well established,” he commented noting that travel agencies have not yet had any contact regarding train promotion.
“If they had a developed product, they would be here at tourist events, explaining what time it leaves, how much it costs, in what languages it is available. But we don’t know anything, everything remains a mystery,”
In other words it’s a huge cock up!
Good old Trans Siberian Express an iconic train if ever there was one
Alert: Here I mostly ramble on about getting to the prime archaeological sites area and the place I used as a base, Xpujil or Xpuhil. The inner fury I felt upon having seen first hand, Tren Mayas long hard line of destruction and devastation of the area rather overtook my original intention of just writing about the sites that I went to. Mexico generally had been a shocker since my last visit and sadly you can clearly hear my disappointment in a place that just three years ago I had worshipped. If you don’t care then I will publish a post tomorrow about the actual sites I went to while there!
And so back to the post:
The Journey to Xpuhil
Me praying to the Mayan gods at Calakmul that no more damage would be done to their sacred land
Riding on the bus away from beastly Bacalar and started on my real road trip! Hooray I’m leaving and going to revisit Xpuhil to use as a base to visit surrounding archaeological sites that I missed last time. I celebrated on that bus to Chetumal after dragging my case miles from my little pension in the midday sun, and was ready to wait there for a couple of hours to get my connection. So in theory I should arrive at my cabin before it’s too late to feel safe, although it will be dark. Upon my joyous arrival (I had so hated Bacalar that any shit hole was now paradise!) I also found that I could buy an earlier ticket upon arrival the bus station, which was a huge relief, rather than the later one which would have involved me waiting five hours and much sighing and whining. However, I still had over an hour to kill and I was suddenly famished.
OR, MY FIRST WEEK BACK IN MEXICO AFTER OVER THREE YEARS.
Just think what’s ahead of you when you arrive!
Long trip from London, little did I know I’d be travelling for over twenty hours. Harsh work indeed!
THE FLIGHT AND JOURNEY.
The flight over was truly dreadful, long very cold and boring. BA sure has changed and taken a nosedive in many ways! That can count literally as they have a fleet of the now infamous Boing aircraft (bits didn’t fall off our plane I don’t think) , however the food, service and general vibe was awful, a kind of Easyjet with fangs. The crew had no manners and there is no leg space at all. I was lucky my lucky dip seating had given me an aisle seat. I would suggest taking your own food as theirs is inedible. They served pretend chicken for both meals that I wouldn’t feed my dog.
OR, ALL TOO EXPENSIVE, TRASHY AND BUSY FOR A WEARY OLD BIRD.
Know that feeling! Agave hangover and how I’m feeling about Merida now
My arrival in Merida was as one so travel weary and on the point of collapse that any hovel would have done to rest my head but I had booked what looked like a fair old style hotel. I had been travelling for twelve hours on two coaches, and my having had a rough last nights sleep in the cabana at Xpuhil added to a hideous fatigue. Boy the Mexicans like to party and play live music really loud all fucking night! Getting out of Xpuhil proved quite tricky and at one point I felt like I would never leave that little dust covered town. It had made an excellent base for archaeology but the escape was hard with very few buses and at horrific and dangerous times at night! One option had meant getting the 4a.m. bus to Campeche! I did consider it but then decided to opt for a safer route via Chetumal.
Clouds at sunrise
I’ve changed my travel plans so many times now I barely know where am when I awaken each morning. It’s scary and never been as bad as this before. This ever changing weather was mostly to blame at the beginning then my bad sunburn. Then the bad advice to go to Bacalar after Tulum that cost me a fortune hence cancelling a beach trip. Then staying the extra day in Xpuhil in my loud but lovely cabin. Then changing my route from Xpuhil to Merida via Chetunal rather than via Campeche. It had all been very confusing and hard work and frankly at times awful. Such is the beast of any travel, but when it’s solo it’s much harder. Much gnashing of teeth and hanging around between the super busy clambering of ruins. Many highs and lows. Much disappointment in the new Mexico and lamenting the old.
Not bad for 107 years old. Much how I feel at the moment
OR, FINALLY RETURNING TO MEXICO, AND FLYING AFTER ONE YEAR OF CLIPPED WINGS.
On the road again folks!
Hello my old birds! Sitting here with a big sloppy grin on my face after having finally purchased my ticket, booked a flat for the first eight days and got some Pesos in my trembling hands after two long years.
I’m very chirpy and, well, not really believing it. I’ve scraped together enough money if I starve a bit, for a month there. One week in my beloved Tulum for a little reconnaissance with old pals hopefully, and much needed beach, sun, swimming, mojitos and rest. It’s been a foul year so I really need this.
What my new accommodation might look like this time. Joking cave paintings near Mitla 2021
The angels approve as I don’t know if you’ve seen, but they’ve just discovered a huge ancient city in the jungle in Campeche area just ten minutes away from where I stayed in Xpuhil. This was on my road trip (bus trip) to as many sites as were open in the year of lockdown (you know what I think of that!) It was after the terribly disappointing trip to Palenque where they had closed the on site museum with all the real treasures in and herded us round a small circuit that was not very interesting to a pro like me. So a quick reminder below.
OR, ARTY TURKIYE HERE I COME. Alert: Another unplanned absence folks but been busy getting ready! The Things Old Birds Can Do To Earn a Crust Abroad. Although there can be a lot of casual […]
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