Category: JOURNALS OF TRAVEL

Truthful quotes from my journals Accounts from my handwritten diaries en route.

SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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MEXICOS TRAIN WRECK,TREN MAYA AND XPUJIL.

OR TRAVELLING TO A TOWN THAT’S LOST ITS IDENTITY AND HEART. POOR XPUHIL.

Me praying to the Mayan gods at Calakmul that no more damage would be done to their sacred land

Alert: Latest article about Tren Maya that proves what I say in the below account has turned out right! It’s white elephant era has begun surprisingly quickly! Don’t want to say I told you so but, I told you so he he!!! Apparently it’s being operated by the military? I don’t know about you but a military run tourist route never has left me with a warm and snuggly feeling in my belly as a traveller. Do read the article it’s accidently extremely funny. It also says

“Today, the Maya Train is not a tourist product that can be offered. There are no clear routes, there are no defined prices, not even the schedules are well established,” he commented noting that travel agencies have not yet had any contact regarding train promotion.

“If they had a developed product, they would be here at tourist events, explaining what time it leaves, how much it costs, in what languages it is available. But we don’t know anything, everything remains a mystery,”

In other words it’s a huge cock up!

Good old Trans Siberian Express an iconic train if ever there was one

Alert: Here I mostly ramble on about getting to the prime archaeological sites area and the place I used as a base, Xpujil or Xpuhil. The inner fury I felt upon having seen first hand, Tren Mayas long hard line of destruction and devastation of the area rather overtook my original intention of just writing about the sites that I went to. Mexico generally had been a shocker since my last visit and sadly you can clearly hear my disappointment in a place that just three years ago I had worshipped. If you don’t care then I will publish a post tomorrow about the actual sites I went to while there!

And so back to the post:

The Journey to Xpuhil

Me praying to the Mayan gods at Calakmul that no more damage would be done to their sacred land

Riding on the bus away from beastly Bacalar and started on my real road trip! Hooray I’m leaving and going to revisit Xpuhil to use as a base to visit surrounding archaeological sites that I missed last time. I celebrated on that bus to Chetumal after dragging my case miles from my little pension in the midday sun, and was ready to wait there for a couple of hours to get my connection. So in theory I should arrive at my cabin before it’s too late to feel safe, although it will be dark. Upon my joyous arrival (I had so hated Bacalar that any shit hole was now paradise!) I also found that I could buy an earlier ticket upon arrival the bus station, which was a huge relief, rather than the later one which would have involved me waiting five hours and much sighing and whining. However, I still had over an hour to kill and I was suddenly famished.

Continue reading MEXICOS TRAIN WRECK,TREN MAYA AND XPUJIL.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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TULUM HERE I COME! VIVA MEXICO!

OR, FINALLY RETURNING TO MEXICO, AND FLYING AFTER ONE YEAR OF CLIPPED WINGS.

On the road again folks!

Hello my old birds! Sitting here with a big sloppy grin on my face after having finally purchased my ticket, booked a flat for the first eight days and got some Pesos in my trembling hands after two long years.

I’m very chirpy and, well, not really believing it. I’ve scraped together enough money if I starve a bit, for a month there. One week in my beloved Tulum for a little reconnaissance with old pals hopefully, and much needed beach, sun, swimming, mojitos and rest. It’s been a foul year so I really need this.

What my new accommodation might look like this time. Joking cave paintings near Mitla 2021

The angels approve as I don’t know if you’ve seen, but they’ve just discovered a huge ancient city in the jungle in Campeche area just ten minutes away from where I stayed in Xpuhil. This was on my road trip (bus trip) to as many sites as were open in the year of lockdown (you know what I think of that!) It was after the terribly disappointing trip to Palenque where they had closed the on site museum with all the real treasures in and herded us round a small circuit that was not very interesting to a pro like me. So a quick reminder below.

Continue reading TULUM HERE I COME! VIVA MEXICO!
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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NEW ME HATCHING, OLD CHICK EMERGING.

OR, THE CAGE DOOR IS SLOWLY OPENING…

Wakey, wakey! Morning everyone! Well it is morning that’s for sure and I’m off to the gym, spa and yoga before lunchtime concert at the reference library, my temple now, my sacrosanct place of quiet and reflection. So without further ado off I trot with my new healthy lifestyle and philosophy.

Confucius He Say…..

After my previous months of confusion it’s more Confucius now, so it’s “Wheresoever you go, go with all your heart.” This was really my philosophy on my travels before but I lost essence of this by somewhat sneering at the small things, the small journeys and now I’m becoming humble again. In the quietening of my impatient brain I also had to remind myself ,“It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.” I indeed have now accepted this so am learning from my tortuous sudden change in my life of speeding along maniacally. From my disappointment in not being able to achieve moving from London and its seemingly insurmountable obstacles in creating a new wild life in so much as a life in the wild it’s been more of a practical “The [wo]man who moves a mountain begins by carrying away small stones” (surely learnt that in my garden in Turkiye.) And “If you make a mistake and do not correct it, this is called a mistake” I now do not just ignore my fuckups but go about trying to fix them. When whizzing about you can all too easily ignore your foolishness and stubbornly not really learn from it. And remember “The gem cannot be polished without friction, nor the man perfected without trials.” Yeah, I think we all have the hang of that one my darling old birds et al.

Continue reading NEW ME HATCHING, OLD CHICK EMERGING.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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UNDERSTANDING OLD BIRD TRAVELS SOLO. BOOK ON MEXICO AND NOW TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS TRIP HALF FINISHED.

FOR MY OLD BIRDS ALL OVER THE WORLD, FINALLY WRITING THE BOOK.

“I want to do it because I want to do it. Women must try to do things as men have tried. When they fail, their failure must be but a challenge to others.” Emily Dickinson

Alert: Here we have the idea of this blog, concept and birth. I’ve left the dates more to remind me that it’s nearly five years old. And now I’m turning it into a book, I need to revisit and expand upon those two hundred and seventy-plus blogs.

Starting the book has made me humble and proud at the same time. It’s also made me realise how sloppy and casual I was depending on my pics and videos to do the real leg work. Well, no more Mrs Sloppy. A book without pictures requires the written word to encompass the vivid wonder of those travelling photos and to be eloquent enough to tell the reader what was seen, smelled, tasted, touched and felt. To put those pictures into words dammit!

2019-04-15 From blog intro all those years ago.

OLD BIRDS NEST PAGE: THE ETHOS OF DOING IT ALONE

Hello, my name is Rebecca Taylor, or Old Bird to you, and I’m here to guide you older birds on braving the big old world out there and doing it alone. Come with me and I’ll nurse you through the highs and lows of being an Old Bird travelling solo. This is more of a raucous journal with some culture and tips thrown in. Don’t worry you’ll get the hang of it. It’s sometimes shouty-sweary, so if you’re a delicate bird you’ll have to excuse me. [Go first to OLD BIRD FLYING SOLO BLOG so we can shake hands then go anywhere in the list that you wish to get started.]

This is the place for an older birdie to visit and, hopefully, gain the confidence to strike out on their own. Yes, we older birds don’t always have to be in a flock, they can do it alone and it’s not as scary as you think. The world is your oyster, as an older woman or man indeed, you should be out there doing all these things and revelling in life.

I will hop around timewise as the writing of the diary becomes insignificant when you’re experiencing so many wonderful things. Some of it is funny and some plainly ludicrous but all a part of an old bird travelling solo! Enjoy! I’ll take you all over the world. In different forms of transport, doing different activities, eating different kinds of food and exploring places you never even thought about before. I will attempt to nurse you through any pitfalls with hints and tips and generally share the whole experience warts and all.

I’ll many times be daft as a brush and screw up so you don’t have to. I’ll get you there with your preparations, nurse your anxieties, laugh at myself and show you stuff you might want to see and do.

Welcome to the fine art of mature solo travelling. For it is an art, it takes the years you might feel you don’t have left, so I humbly offer all my mistakes so you don’t have to make them. I will also crow when I get something right.

 “You are the one that possesses the keys to your being. You carry the passport to your own happiness” – Diane von Furstenberg

Continue reading UNDERSTANDING OLD BIRD TRAVELS SOLO. BOOK ON MEXICO AND NOW TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS TRIP HALF FINISHED.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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TRAVELLING WITH A HANGOVER AND ILL HEALTH. BROKEN BITS AND FLU LIKE STUFF. ALL OVER THE WORLD.

OR, I SWORE I’D NEVER DO IT AGAIN.

Dumb stupid me.

Never too poorly for a joke in Guatemala

The classic faux pas that a novice would do, not a veteran traveller like me. I thought that I would treat myself to just the one as I was bored on my last day. I’d been to the museum in the morning and planned to finish my blog after. It was then the WiFi started playing up and so did I. Not having a book is another schoolgirl error and I had finished mine a long time back up in the mountains.

Top of the world ma. Broken foot or not I still travelled on in Mexico

Just the one I thought as I glugged down an icy beer in the last of the days sunshine. Then I trotted off to where I was to meet my cousin and as he was late another frothy concoction was quaffed. At the restaurant of course I had to join him for one, two then three over dinner. A nightcap is mandatory by then. I had no water in my room and I slept badly needing a lot of wees in the night. Truly stupid of me knowing I had an early flight. Lack of sleep, too many beers and also rising hysteria about returning to ghastly England.

Beer always in the equation this time round in Turkiye

Apart from getting lost on the way to the airport everything else seemed to go smoothly despite my weariness, headache and nausea until my phone pinged at the gate. Our plane is bust they are getting us a fresh one and here the agony begins. You know when they say just over and hour it’s bollacks, it’s going to be a ghastly amount of pissing about and suffering, not just for me with my hangover, but all the women who’ve just had beauty surgery in İzmir. I say beauty in a very general way as one doubts the stapling of stomachs and filing down of teeth for veneers could ever be for beautification in any way shape or form. The trout pouts and enlarged breasts, hips and bums are macabre to say the least and flying straight after must endanger you. From what I overheard in a nosy way was that they all were already feeling a little poorly before this delay.

Continue reading TRAVELLING WITH A HANGOVER AND ILL HEALTH. BROKEN BITS AND FLU LIKE STUFF. ALL OVER THE WORLD.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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BRAVE NEW WORLD. TURKIYE COUNTRYSIDE.

OR, MY BRAVE NEW WORLD, NOT WHAT THE ELITES HAVE IN MIND.

View from my friend and neighbours house at sunset

Every day here in Turkiye has been a blessing except for the house hassle. This I will set aside for today. Every day I see a new side of the magnificent countryside in it’s raw brutal strength, mountains of rugged and often dangerous secrets, olive fields with animals roaming beneath their ancient boughs and wild flowers that pop up overnight despite the apparent arid land. Snakes and scorpions are what the locals most fear but I’ve been blessed in not having a sudden venomous surprise under the many rocks I have moved and the dark tunnels that have been exposed by my work. The chickens seem to tidy up the nasty bugs for me and Mother Nature has thus far been benevolent to me.

The pure mountain water beside the mosque where I go each day to wash some of the dirt from my face and arms and have a long, cool drink
Surprise in the ivy I was clearing. A hawk moth larva.
My morning dog piss
The capturing of my beautiful garden one last time.
Continue reading BRAVE NEW WORLD. TURKIYE COUNTRYSIDE.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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ARCHAEOLOGISTS, NEW SITES AND HARD CORE IN THE GARDEN IN TURKIYE.

OR, REST DAY TODAY AFTER OVERDOING IT IN MY GARDEN

Hammock number two

I woke up last night with a truly terrible cramp in my calf. The muscle was so rigid and the pain so intense I couldn’t even swing it to the floor to push against it. I knew that it would result in muscle burn and that today plans had to be changed. Then when I awoke in the morning I ate almonds for the magnesium and some dried apricots and then had a spell of nausea. I should have known I was imploding after having a terrible deep siesta sleep the previous day that you feel you will never be able to resurface from. Clearly I had a bit of sunstroke A day of rest was in order. A Zen day today my friends, some yoga and meditation after my last few hectic days.

A treasure trove of old kitchen ware
Continue reading ARCHAEOLOGISTS, NEW SITES AND HARD CORE IN THE GARDEN IN TURKIYE.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels
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MILETUS RUINS, A LAKE AND BITS FROM MY ROAD TRIP.

OR, HOW MUCH MORE IS UNDER THE GROUND TO BE DISCOVERED IN TURKIYE?

Huge panorama of yet uncovered wonders

START OF THE ROAD TRIP.

A road trip was in order. I’d had crushing news about another setback on the house front and then the internet went down for two days, not just at my lovely fish restaurant but all over the area. I’d tried going to my pals at the top of the mountain but although my phone worked my laptop didn’t! My frustration and malaise meant that I was openly crying by the evening with all my “family” uneasily clucking around making me feel a bit better but worse at the same time. This wouldn’t do at all. It was time for a change. It was time for a road trip.

After another ponder in my garden knowing a road trip was called for.

That night I hastily packed my small rucksack and told them I was shooting off in the morning for three days. By eight o’clock the next morning I was walking away down the hill the two km to the main road to hail a minibus. I was on the move heading to Selcuk and the information I needed to take the connections to hit Miletus and maybe even on to the lake and the ancient Herakleia. I would see, I already had my travel head on.

My old mate from the village who was at the bus stop in the morning

The walk was very pleasant and soothed my injured soul and the minibus wait was painless at that time in the morning. My old neighbour was already at the stop on the opposite side of the road going off to Tire and I pondered if she’d walked down from the village making it a fair old trot for an old, if not ancient old bird. Her minibus shouted over to me that mine would arrive in five minutes. That’s how caring the system is here, I love their system in Turkiye.

Continue reading MILETUS RUINS, A LAKE AND BITS FROM MY ROAD TRIP.
SOLO TRAVEL FOR WOMEN by oldbirdtravels

GARDEN. MY LOVE OF THE MOUNTAIN REFUGE IN TURKIYE.

OR, NOW I’M DEALING WITH A JUNGLE!

When finally I got back to the mountains and went up to my garden a bit of a shock was in store for me.

Brambles and vines hide a wall down to a secret garden

The beautifully ploughed field was shoulder-high in weeds and very thorny thistle-like weeds, and the trees had all got a lot bigger! Not just a bit, but about doubled in size. I turned my attention to the top terraces by the broken beautiful carcass of a house and there I saw nothing but weeds, ivy, vines, rocks and bloody plastic. I would have to have a proper plan and I needed a less shocked and overwhelmed brain to process it. I would have to put my gardener’s brain in gear and see what could be achieved that wasn’t reckless and well, a waste of time till the rebuild.

In the exposed secret garden, Henry the Tortoise has reappeared and Doggo who ‘helps’ with the garden. I say that loosely as he feels kipping on newly cleared bits and chewing pine cones his main job.
Continue reading GARDEN. MY LOVE OF THE MOUNTAIN REFUGE IN TURKIYE.