or the drought seems over and a’ mushrooming we will go! After a long hopeless summer with no actual sun, chemical clouds poisoning us but no actual rain from the heavens and all wildlife suffering, […]
Category: ANIMALS AND PLACES OF NATURAL BEAUTY.
MY BIRTHDAY BONANZA IN MEXICO’S HOMUN.
OR, VIEWING A SELF CONTAINED PARADISE THAT I COULD MAKE MY FOREVER HOME.

Well I stayed on. What could I do, such was my love for my new family and the lush, mellow and inspiring environment.
As soon as Dulce lured me with a suggestion of a birthday party for me then I was convinced that I had to stay for at least that. What would I do? Go sit on my lonesome in some frankly half rate town on my way back to Cancun (sorry Valladolid but you are a bit second rate!) I extended my booking and also in that way had the chance to go with her to view a new enterprise, a living breathing escape plan for the like-minded. An all encompassing plan for the future of those who really want to go off grid on a permanent basis. This was a huge opportunity for me for it had really been the reason for this trip to Mexico. I had spoken to a family member about having a deep search while I was here, which I had been doing but it had become a dismal failure thus far. Here however magic happens and exactly what I was looking for fell into my lap like a plump, fresh, rosy apple just fallen from the tree. Its name being Neekluum. More on that later however, we are just getting to that.

My days there were all birthdays really, lolling around and picking herbs to identify, roaming the fields and ranches around, talking to cows and drinking beer. Dulce and I would gossip idly and I would try to write in a lazy desultory way then rush off up the path to the wilderness for a quick explore and adventure (like meeting a new cow or finding more ruins of old huge ranch houses.)

On my birthday it was the same except for Dulce getting glammed up for the viewing and me starting to whine about when we were going and where could I find tequila for my fucking birthday for gods sake? I was getting princessy and petulant and threatening not to go anywhere if we didn’t go now. Well it was my birthday and I had survived living through the demonic year of being 66. Also I was born on 6/12 so it was all very sixy, too many sixes in other words and I feared that I would die before I saw this satanic age out. I had now hit 67 so it was a huge cause for celebration. I had banged on about it enough ffs. Didn’t they understand my very superstitious numerological stance on this issue?




Of course this was all very easy and the wonderful owner of this new venture picked us up and off we went to have a look at this jungle paradise. Jacqui and I immediately bonded as she explained the concept of this new off grid chance of a new life in this very beautiful part of the Yucatan peninsula. Although at an embryonic stage there were a few intrepid visionaries who had already bought lots and were building their properties, all of which were at different stages. She would show us the plans in the area that had already been assigned as a central meeting area when we arrived.

This gated property is of 250 acres of wild jungle which has been visualised for a community of like minded and only had some vague practical ‘rules’. This was all made clear on the wonderfully grubby set of plans she whacked out on the counter of their open community kitchen. It was huge and much like a village of kinds it had areas for the more social and for us more private creatures who only want to meet up on their terms. There is a large piece of land also allocated to larger creatures such as cows and horses which you couldn’t keep in your back garden, or llamas or whatever you can think of as long as they don’t eat other peoples animals of course, but I digress. There is already an area for chucks and ducks but you can have your own and depending on how many lots you want yo can grow your veg separately from the communal more allotment type area. She also explained the legality of foreigners is covered under a rather neat loophole and basically you get on and make what you will of the area you have bought. The miles of raw track we covered was just to show the various area allocations and I felt that this had been supremely well thought out. She held my heart in her hands when she said this, this was exactly what I yearned for. The red soil along that section was rich and it was a very lush area. The lots all have their little signposts and when you see a drilled borehole you know some lucky bastard has that site and has already drilled down to the substrata to reach the pure clean water below.

Make no mistake, this is not for the faint hearted as it’s raw and brutal in its early stages, a shock to those who lack vision. Clearly this is all organic, no nasties on any level so that freedom to work at one with nature is yours to do what you will with. A lot of relearning and researching the old ways if you don’t already have at least a smattering of that kind of knowledge. Bartering will be encouraged and arts and crafts, evidently not just something to play at, but a necessity so as to allow the place to be self sustaining. Home schooling and the freedom for children to flourish and be children again, for families to be cherished and to be the stable influence that they have ceased to be in this modern blind and ugly world is the basis of the philosophy here. Listening to the birds giving a last hurrah for the day we left watching as the sun set on our way back down the country lanes. We were silent. So much to think about and so much peace for me to see that they did exist dammit, these havens did bloody exist.
THE PARTY.
We couldn’t track down a half bottle of tequila so I just settled for wine, little did I know that particular train would come in later. With the stars out and our little group of revellers assembled, we sat out front with birthday girls tinsel and foolishness surrounding her, wine being slurped and cake and fireworks igniting suddenly and dangerously and all the while some strange mixture of music. Oh and plus the obligatory ‘Happy Birthday’ song all was well with the world and I was enjoying being the centre of attention. This wasn’t to last however when a weird very pissed couple turned up who actually were the proud owners of a huge bottle of tequila. It was an accident waiting to happen, and although we shrieked and said the gods were looking after me when the couple announced we were welcome to share it with them, I did foresee disaster.

First though of course it was all very wonderful and we heard of their road trip so far (the car I noticed was parked precariously, and if I might say, rather to close to us) They already seemed hammered and that was me saying after drinking beer all day and having heavily embarked on the vino tinto. However we knocked those shots back of the very delicious tequila shouting wildly and laughing raucously at nothing in particular, certainly nothing that would be laughed at whilst sober. The girl looked Japanese of origin and he was Mexican but both resided in LA and were techies. They were rubbish drinkers. At some stage she realised that she had locked the keys in the car so had to borrow warm clothes from the ever suffering Dulce. They didn’t seem fazed for they knew a way to break in to the car. This they would do in the morning they slurred confidently. I saw the end of the tequila was in sight so suddenly I found their company less attractive and scuttled off to bed.



I would blearily recall a lot of footfall through the night but nothing that actually interfered with my sleep, my lovely selfish drunken sleep.

The next morning Dulce told me about the dramas of the night. The continuous projectile vomiting all night by the very fucked Mexican. Poor Dulce, as soon as she mopped up one rank acid pool of puke then he would stagger elsewhere to shit and puke copiously. She had to change his bed linen twice and generally it all had become a hideous drama that I thankfully slept through.

Also the breaking in of the car proved impossible and poor Aleph had to drive all the way to Merida to get a new one cut. Talk about above and beyond the call of duty. The key arrived and then that one didn’t actually work. These very irritating people were so entitled that they didn’t even seem bothered, indeed when the car was finally entered (don’t ask me how it had all become extremely boring by then) they decided to go on the cenote tour with a completely exhausted Aleph. I stayed most of the day in bed. I felt dreadful. It would seem that I too should have emptied my stomach so as not to have a very foul tequila hangover. It all reminded me of the drunken Mexican in Punta Allen. (click to see post) and also my stay in Villa Hermosa had had a shooting at the bar over the road with five fatalities which you can find at the end of that post. Seems the Mexicans are really rubbish and dangerous drinkers. It’s no good, they are really pants at having a nice knees up, it never ends well.
OVER AND OUT FROM A FRAGILE OLD BIRD.

CENOTES AND CAVES OF REBIRTH.
OR, MY CHANCE AT SHRUGGING OFF PHOBIAS AND GETTING DARK AND DEEP.
Cenote, from the incorrect Spanish pronunciation of the Yucatan Mayan word ts’ono’ot (dzonot) or “well with water”. However these underground and sometimes over ground places (leading to the underground) were venerated magical and sacred sites used for ceremonies. Their Underworld was a place for death and life or xibalba, evoking the type of rebirth that I clumsily have tried to express, where you can grow your consciousness and overcome all the negative that has swamped your soul in the earthly realm. Where the Mayan Gods dwell.

I love you all, my naughty old birds out there, let’s get to some more happiness and actually bravery on my behalf, a harsh climb down into the bowels of the earth to a magical cave without fairies but a whole bunch of mystical energy. You’ll have to use your imagination a whole load as it was too surreal for belief, and didn’t tolerate photos well. The fancy pics I’ve seen have been heavily doctored and certainly taken with a better camera than my dirty old phone one. It’s better for you to imagine this small cavern complex and derive the same chills and fierce energy through words and imagination.
HAPPINESS IN HOMUN!
OR DAZED AND AMAZED AS I FIND A NEW FAMILY!

My collectivo van from Merida was finally simple to get and oh what heaven to escape from the sad remnants of that fine city of Merida. I squeezed on the very busy little bus with my bags half on my lap and half under my legs and basically in the way wherever I squidged them, but at least I was on my way. The tourists aboard seemed terribly excited to escape also, it seems that I wasn’t the only person crushed with disappointment with Merida’s recent unpleasant and frenetic transformation. We bumped along merrily for an hour on boring roads and motorways until suddenly we turned off and the scenery completely changed. We were on the extensive reserve of Homun. An oasis of cenotes and ranches and a place to escape to. Instantly I felt calmed and we tourists were hushed. The locals gradually got off in their various villettes for a normal days work and we waited to also be disgorged from the bus for more glamorous escapades.

My stop was on the main road before the centre and involved a short walk dragging my case up a small road away from civilisation. I finally felt at peace and knew in my heart that I was coming home. This dusty track was leading me to happiness and would soothe my soul.

The hand painted signs periodically nailed to trees announcing ‘Hostal Oro Verde’ kept my spirits up as I left the tarmac and was on a single path leading into the countryside. Cows mooed, dogs barked and birdies sang, but above all my path was strewn with butterflies that would be disturbed by my footfall and fly up in clouds of glorious colours. Mostly orange but also yellow and some mauve. It was then I noticed the heady aroma of grass and wild herbs and it was then that I knew I would finally be able to rest my weary head, for this indeed was paradise.

AT LAST, HOME SWEET HOME.

CALAKMUL DISAPPOINTS AGAIN
OR YOU’LL NEED TO TAKE OUT A SECOND MORGAGE FOR THIS SAD SHOW
I really don’t know why I bothered apart from the excitement of a new city found up the road from Calakmul and Xpujil called Valeriana. Literally I thought that people would be able to amble in and I vaguely remembered security being lax around most sites, but more importantly there being a few gates of access. Not just the one.

By the way I’ve thrown in some random vids because I was aware of the rather negative content he he.
Things seemed so groovy and casual back in the day in Mexicos Yucatan and now it’s turned into little America but with military presence everywhere. It’s tragic how history repeats itself and the Latin Mexicans are busy victimising the indigenous groups and destroying just a little more of their homeland and also smashing down huge swathes of virgin jungle. Ooh the new president Claudia Sheinbaum, she’s so cool and green, although she’s not though is she?
Anyhoo, it would seem that the relationship with America will now be a sore topic so I doubt she will be giving any thought at all to other issues apart from building camps for the huge amount of deported Mexicans that are being deported. I suppose it will be ‘watch this space’ as to their policies with the States go from now on.
Calakmul. IN 2021 ALL CLOSED UP AFTER THEY LURE YOU IN.
The brief mention given in 21.
“This is another example of closed sections at famous pyramids. Another scam in times of ‘plague

BACALAR, LAKES AND SUNRISE IN MEXICO.
OR, HOSTELS LIKE HOME!
I have had to backtrack to revisit my horrible experience in Bacalar, and am still digesting the no go areas advice that I would give for present day Mexico and the things still worthwhile and to be explored. Just thinking about it makes me have a panic attack as do a few places this time, so before that, I’ll finish the hateful Bacalar moan then can go onto the lovely parts of my trip which really was the archaeology and my lovely new family in Homun of course!

After the trials and tribulations of my journey down from Tulum (coconut oil leaking in my rucksack, late bus, rip off taxi from ADO bus station in Bacalar and not being able to find my hostel!) I finally settled into my modest but lovely accommodation and breathed a sigh of relief. I’d forgotten that however experienced, we all can cock up sometimes when travelling solo.
IN TULUM,MEXICO COUNTING MY BLESSINGS.
OR, MY FIRST WEEK BACK IN MEXICO AFTER OVER THREE YEARS.

Long trip from London, little did I know I’d be travelling for over twenty hours. Harsh work indeed!
THE FLIGHT AND JOURNEY.
The flight over was truly dreadful, long very cold and boring. BA sure has changed and taken a nosedive in many ways! That can count literally as they have a fleet of the now infamous Boing aircraft (bits didn’t fall off our plane I don’t think) , however the food, service and general vibe was awful, a kind of Easyjet with fangs. The crew had no manners and there is no leg space at all. I was lucky my lucky dip seating had given me an aisle seat. I would suggest taking your own food as theirs is inedible. They served pretend chicken for both meals that I wouldn’t feed my dog.

TULUM HERE I COME! VIVA MEXICO!
OR, FINALLY RETURNING TO MEXICO, AND FLYING AFTER ONE YEAR OF CLIPPED WINGS.

Hello my old birds! Sitting here with a big sloppy grin on my face after having finally purchased my ticket, booked a flat for the first eight days and got some Pesos in my trembling hands after two long years.
I’m very chirpy and, well, not really believing it. I’ve scraped together enough money if I starve a bit, for a month there. One week in my beloved Tulum for a little reconnaissance with old pals hopefully, and much needed beach, sun, swimming, mojitos and rest. It’s been a foul year so I really need this.

The angels approve as I don’t know if you’ve seen, but they’ve just discovered a huge ancient city in the jungle in Campeche area just ten minutes away from where I stayed in Xpuhil. This was on my road trip (bus trip) to as many sites as were open in the year of lockdown (you know what I think of that!) It was after the terribly disappointing trip to Palenque where they had closed the on site museum with all the real treasures in and herded us round a small circuit that was not very interesting to a pro like me. So a quick reminder below.
DOGS AND ALL CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL WORLDWIDE AND HOW THEY HELP A SOLO TRAVELLER KEEP POSITIVE.

OR ANIMALS ALL OVER THE PLACE. FOR ANIMAL LOVERS ALL OVER.

Looking through my huge archive of photos today in the reference library, I saw that I had neglected connecting all the animals I had rubbed shoulders with on my travels around the world. I feel I need to correct this seeing as animals are my favourite things.
ELEPHANT SANCTUARY THAILAND, CHIANG MAI.

Let’s face it animals are part of every aspect of our lives The good, bad and ugly. They feature in religions past and present, they live with us, they entertain and fascinate us, and we eat them. I don’t want to get embroiled here on how much modern humans abuse them rather than revere them, that’s for another time. I just want to casually look over some of my encounters to remind us why we yearn to be on the move and experience the mundane and exotic.
UNDERSTANDING OLD BIRD TRAVELS SOLO. BOOK ON MEXICO AND NOW TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS TRIP HALF FINISHED.
FOR MY OLD BIRDS ALL OVER THE WORLD, FINALLY WRITING THE BOOK.

“I want to do it because I want to do it. Women must try to do things as men have tried. When they fail, their failure must be but a challenge to others.” Emily Dickinson
Alert: Here we have the idea of this blog, concept and birth. I’ve left the dates more to remind me that it’s nearly five years old. And now I’m turning it into a book, I need to revisit and expand upon those two hundred and seventy-plus blogs.
Starting the book has made me humble and proud at the same time. It’s also made me realise how sloppy and casual I was depending on my pics and videos to do the real leg work. Well, no more Mrs Sloppy. A book without pictures requires the written word to encompass the vivid wonder of those travelling photos and to be eloquent enough to tell the reader what was seen, smelled, tasted, touched and felt. To put those pictures into words dammit!
2019-04-15 From blog intro all those years ago.
OLD BIRDS NEST PAGE: THE ETHOS OF DOING IT ALONE
Hello, my name is Rebecca Taylor, or Old Bird to you, and I’m here to guide you older birds on braving the big old world out there and doing it alone. Come with me and I’ll nurse you through the highs and lows of being an Old Bird travelling solo. This is more of a raucous journal with some culture and tips thrown in. Don’t worry you’ll get the hang of it. It’s sometimes shouty-sweary, so if you’re a delicate bird you’ll have to excuse me. [Go first to OLD BIRD FLYING SOLO BLOG so we can shake hands then go anywhere in the list that you wish to get started.]
This is the place for an older birdie to visit and, hopefully, gain the confidence to strike out on their own. Yes, we older birds don’t always have to be in a flock, they can do it alone and it’s not as scary as you think. The world is your oyster, as an older woman or man indeed, you should be out there doing all these things and revelling in life.
I will hop around timewise as the writing of the diary becomes insignificant when you’re experiencing so many wonderful things. Some of it is funny and some plainly ludicrous but all a part of an old bird travelling solo! Enjoy! I’ll take you all over the world. In different forms of transport, doing different activities, eating different kinds of food and exploring places you never even thought about before. I will attempt to nurse you through any pitfalls with hints and tips and generally share the whole experience warts and all.
I’ll many times be daft as a brush and screw up so you don’t have to. I’ll get you there with your preparations, nurse your anxieties, laugh at myself and show you stuff you might want to see and do.
Welcome to the fine art of mature solo travelling. For it is an art, it takes the years you might feel you don’t have left, so I humbly offer all my mistakes so you don’t have to make them. I will also crow when I get something right.
“You are the one that possesses the keys to your being. You carry the passport to your own happiness” – Diane von Furstenberg

